The Appetizing Counter
"An 'Appetizing Store' is distinct from a 'Deli' (which sells cured meats)—it specializes in smoked fish, dairy, and pickled vegetables. This is where you get lox, nova (cold-smoked salmon), sable (smoked black cod), whitefish salad, and scallion cream cheese. The ordering process is fast, loud, and uses numbered tickets. Staff shout orders and slice fish to order."
Logistics
Moderate
Vibe
Traditional, efficient
Duration
30 minutes
Best For
Brunch
The Backstory
Appetizing stores emerged in the early 1900s to serve kosher-observant Jews who couldn't mix meat and dairy. Russ & Daughters (1914) on the Lower East Side is the iconic survivor. The term 'appetizing' refers to foods eaten as appetizers or with bread—fish, cheese, pickles.
Local Secret
"Take a number and know your order before reaching the counter—staff are gruff but efficient. Order by weight: '1/4 pound nova, scallion schmear, half sour pickles.' Lox is salt-cured and oily; nova is milder and smoked. Sable is richer than salmon and an insider favorite. Eat the fish within 2 days."