Fish Sandwich
"Balık ekmek is a grilled mackerel fillet served in half a loaf of crusty bread with lettuce, onions, and lemon—nothing more. This is Istanbul's most iconic street food, traditionally sold from rocking boats moored at Eminönü pier. The fish is grilled fresh on charcoal, the smoke mixing with sea air. It's messy, delicious, and fundamentally Istanbul."
Logistics
Affordable
Vibe
Chaotic, Fresh, Iconic
Duration
10-15 minutes
Best For
Quick bite
The Backstory
The balık ekmek tradition began in the 1950s when fishermen at Eminönü started grilling their catch and selling sandwiches directly from their boats. The rocking boat restaurants became a symbol of Istanbul's waterfront culture. In the 1990s-2000s, these boats faced repeated government crackdowns over hygiene concerns and illegal mooring, leading to their eventual removal in 2017. Today, balık ekmek is sold from fixed stands at Eminönü and Karaköy, but purists mourn the loss of the boat experience.
Local Secret
"Go to the stands under Galata Bridge at Eminönü—look for the ones with the longest lines of locals. Eat it immediately while standing; it gets soggy fast. Squeeze lots of lemon and ask for extra onions. Avoid places that pre-cook fish; it should be grilled to order."