Kumpir (Loaded Baked Potato)
"Kumpir is a massive baked potato split open, mashed with butter and cheese until creamy, then loaded with your choice from a dizzying array of toppings: corn, pickles, olives, sausages, Russian salad, carrots, peas, and more. It originated in the Ortaköy neighborhood and became a cult food. One kumpir is a full meal—cheap, filling, and customizable."
Logistics
Affordable
Vibe
Indulgent, Customizable, Youthful
Duration
20-30 minutes
Best For
Budget travelers
The Backstory
Kumpir came to Turkey in the 1980s, inspired by baked potato stands in Eastern Europe. The Ortaköy district, a bohemian waterfront area popular with students, became ground zero for kumpir culture. What started as simple baked potatoes evolved into the loaded, over-the-top version known today as vendors competed by offering more and more outrageous toppings. By the 1990s, Ortaköy's kumpir street had become a pilgrimage site for teenagers and tourists. The dish represents Istanbul's ability to take foreign foods and make them excessively Turkish.
Local Secret
"Go to Ortaköy's waterfront kumpir row—the street with a dozen competing stalls. The standard move: butter, cheese, then 4-6 toppings of your choice (avoid overdoing it or flavors get muddled). Eat it fresh while the potato is hot. Sunday afternoons get extremely crowded; weekday evenings are better."